Bhaktapur, mid April
Around 14 April, the Nepali solar new year, Bhaktapur's upper and lower towns haul a chariot against each other. It is the town's own week, and a rough, joyful one.
Photo: Mehmet Turgut Kirkgoz / Pexels
The date
Most of the valley's festivals follow the moon and move from year to year. Bisket Jatra is fixed to the solar new year, so it falls around 14 April every year, which makes it one of the easiest to plan a trip around.
Photo: Mehmet Turgut Kirkgoz / Pexels
Taumadhi
At Taumadhi, the upper and lower town pull Bhairava's chariot against each other in a tug of war, from both sides at once. Whichever side you cheer for, keep a respectful distance from the chariot.
Photo: Emre Yurttakalın / Pexels
The pole
A pole of about 25 m (80 ft) is raised with red banners for the festival, and it comes down on new year's eve. Its rise and fall frame the week, so ask your guide which day you will see each.
Photo: Pranish Shrestha / Unsplash
Around the square
Nyatapola rises five roofs above Taumadhi, completed in July 1702 and guarded up its stairs by wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins and two goddesses. A few minutes away, potters set their jars to dry across Talakwo.
Photo: Kerensa Pickett
When to walk it
Bhaktapur is at its best early, when the potters are at the wheel and the curd shops are opening. Try juju dhau, buffalo-milk curd set in unglazed clay. In festival week, expect full squares and plan around the crowd.
Photo: Sushanta Rokka / Unsplash
April weather
April afternoons in the valley run hazy and about 29 °C (84 °F). Spring haze softens the peaks, so this is a week for streets and squares; the clear Himalayan views belong to autumn.
Photo: Roman Saienko / Pexels
From Darjeeling
From Bagdogra it is 43 km over the Mechi bridge to Bhadrapur and a 45-minute flight to Kathmandu, then 11 km east to Bhaktapur. Three Royal Cities moves its nights to meet Bisket Jatra when your dates allow.
Photo: Sushanta Rokka / Unsplash