Kathmandu Durbar Square
On the south side of Kathmandu Durbar Square stands the Kumari Ghar, home of the living goddess. You may walk into its courtyard and wait. Here is what to expect, and what not to do.
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Who she is
The Nepal Tourism Board describes the Kumari as the living incarnation of the goddess Taleju Bhawani. She is chosen from a Buddhist family of the Shakya clan and revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike.
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Until puberty
When a Kumari reaches puberty she loses her divine status, and the search for the next begins. Patan, Bhaktapur, Bungamati, Thimi and other Newar towns keep Kumaris of their own; Kathmandu's is the Royal Kumari.
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The house
King Jaya Prakash Malla built the Kumari Ghar in 1757, its woodwork carved with gods and symbols. Visitors may stand in the courtyard but not enter the building. There is no timetable for her appearances.
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Late afternoon
She sometimes appears at a carved upper window, most often in the late afternoon. Photographs of her are not allowed. Your guide will tell you when she may come, and when to put the phone away.
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Indra Jatra
During Indra Jatra the Kumari is pulled through the old city in her chariot. The main day falls on 25 September 2026 and on 14 September 2027. Expect full lanes, and Lakhe dancers in red masks.
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Planning
Walk Durbar Square and the lanes to Asan, then wait in the Kumari's courtyard as the light goes, with no promise either way. If your dates can move, Indra Jatra week is the time to see her for certain.
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