Sikkim and Kalimpong, February

Losar, the Tibetan new year, in the hills

Losar usually falls in February or early March. In Sikkim's monasteries the old year is danced out first; then families carry khadas, the white offering scarves, and butter lamps up to the gompas.

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The date

It moves with the Tibetan calendar

Losar fell on 18 February in 2026, and Gangtok's festival calendar gives 7 February for 2027. Because the day moves every year, the monasteries are asked for the exact dates before a week is fixed.

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Rumtek, two days before

The Gutor chaam: good against evil

Two days before the new year, Rumtek dances the Gutor chaam, the battle between good and evil, which ends with evil burnt. The monastery itself opened as the Karmapa's seat in exile on Losar in 1966.

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Pemayangtse, Pelling

Masked dances to close the year

Pemayangtse, the house whose lamas anointed Sikkim's kings, holds masked dances on the 28th and 29th days of the old year's last month, usually in February. Losar follows.

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Gangtok and Pelling

Khadas, butter lamps and Tashi delek

On the day, families carry khadas and butter lamps to the monasteries of Gangtok and Pelling. The greeting you will hear all day is Tashi delek, blessings and good fortune, said above all at Losar.

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Darjeeling and Kalimpong

New prayer flags on the ridge

In Ghum, Lebong and Darjeeling's gompas, new prayer flags go up. In Kalimpong, families carry khatas to Tharpa Choling on Tirpai and to Thongsa Gompa, and the Gelug house on Tirpai is at its fullest.

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February weather

A cold, clear week

February runs about 3 to 12 °C (37 to 54 °F) in Darjeeling and 7 to 14 °C (45 to 57 °F) in Gangtok, cold and dry. Shoes come off on monastery floors, so pack warm socks along with the down jacket.

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Soon after

Stay on for Bumchu at Tashiding

In the first Tibetan month, Tashiding's monks open a sacred vase of water and read the year's fortune from its level. Both dates move, so let that year's calendar set the week, then build the days around it.

Photo: Renjith Ponnappan / Pexels