Observatory Hill, Darjeeling
A lane of about 90 m (300 ft) climbs from the Mall to the top of Darjeeling's oldest hill. It is a short walk with a long story, best taken at dusk or just after dawn.
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1765
The Dorje-Ling monastery stood on this hill in 1765, and by local tradition Darjeeling took its name from it. The Mahakal temple stands there now.
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Mahakal
Hindus and Buddhists keep this shrine together. A Hindu priest and a Buddhist monk perform their rituals side by side, among lingams, a Buddha and prayer flags hung layer on layer.
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06:00
Early in the morning the hill belongs to the bell-ringers and a few walkers, and on a clear day the snows stand above the flags. Kanchenjunga lies a little west of due north from here.
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A warning
The monkeys on Observatory Hill know a paper bag of sweets when they see one, and they are quicker than you. Leave the snacks in the car.
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Dusk
Chowrasta, at 2,134 m (7,000 ft), is closed to all vehicles, and the square is the town's evening walk. Come down from the temple as the lamps come on in the fog.
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The golden statue
The golden figure is Bhanubhakta Acharya, the poet who first put the Ramayana into Nepali. On 13 July, his birthday, the town garlands the statue for Bhanu Jayanti.
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Planning it
Once at dusk for the lamps, once at six for the mountain. Sleep on the Observatory Hill side of town and both walks start a few minutes from your door.
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