Pashupatinath, dusk
On the platform below Nepal's great Shiva temple, three priests raise flaming brass lamps in slow circles while bells and chanting carry across the Bagmati. It has happened every evening since 2006.
Photo: Manish Ratna Buddhacharya
At the gate
The sanctum is open to Hindus, who go in for darshan with a guide, and Indian nationals enter free. Other passports pay about US$6.50 and see the outer shrines, the ghats and the east bank.
Photo: Sushanta Rokka / Unsplash
Where to stand
Everyone may watch from the stone terraces across the river, among rows of small Shiva shrines. Your guide keeps you a step to sit on. Sandalwood and marigold hang in the air, and monkeys work the temple roofs.
Photo: Sushanta Rokka / Unsplash
Hours
The grounds open at 04:00 and close at 21:00. The inner gates shut at 14:00 and open again for the evening. Monday is Shiva's day and brings the longest queue of the week, so we leave Boudha earlier to find a clear step.
Photo: Roman Saienko / Pexels
Respect
Leather belts, bags and jackets are not allowed inside the main complex; leave them in the car. Below the temple, pyres may be burning on the ghats. It is a working cremation ground, not a viewing platform.
Photo: Sanjeev Shakya / Unsplash
Planning
Boudha and Pashupatinath sit close together on the east side of the city, so lamps at the stupa and the river aarti fit one late afternoon. The aarti hour can shift with the season, so your guide confirms it on the day.
Photo: Sushanta Rokka / Unsplash