Ten nights, Bagdogra to Bagdogra

The whole of Sikkim in one run

Most visitors meet Sikkim in pieces: Gangtok and a lake one year, Pelling and a sunrise the next. Taken in one run, the pieces start to explain each other, from Yumthang's yak meadow to three Kanchenjunga dawns at Pelling.

Photo: Rupesh Jaiswal / Unsplash

Days 1 and 2, Gangtok

Tsomgo first, as a rehearsal

Two nights at Pangthang, north of Gangtok, with Tsomgo at 3,753 m (12,310 ft) on day 2. Treat it as a test: walk slowly, notice who tires first, sleep low. Meanwhile our operator files the North Sikkim permit, which needs a full working day.

Photo: NSG / Unsplash

Days 3 to 5, the north

Two nights in Lachung, while legs are fresh

The north comes early but not first. Two nights in Lachung, at about 2,650 m (8,690 ft), make the Yumthang meadow a calm morning instead of a race against the 16:00 checkpost. Your large cases wait at the Taj; only a soft bag comes north.

Photo: Ayush Paul / Pexels

Day 5

Back through Gangtok for your suitcase

Coming down from the north, you get an hour on MG Marg, then the Taj at Pangthang, where your large case is already in the room and a spa treatment is booked. After three days of rock and river, the order makes sense.

Photo: Unsplash

Days 6 and 7, Ravangla

Walking country at about 2,000 m

The south is gentler: Temi, the tea garden the last Chogyal set up in 1969, then two nights near Ravangla and a walk of about 6 km up Tendong, the hill Lepcha tradition says rose to keep their ancestors above a great flood.

Photo: Nithya / Unsplash

Days 8 to 10, Pelling

Three nights, because the mountain needs three dawns

Pelling closes the journey with three nights in a cottage at the royal retreat of 1942, because the mountain needs three dawns to be sure of one. Between them come Pemayangtse, Rabdentse's ruins, Khecheopalri, Yuksom and Rinchenpong.

Photo: Soumik Ghosh / Unsplash

Day 11

About 1,000 km, from 126 m to 3,753 m and back

The last morning runs down the Rangeet and the Teesta to Bagdogra by about noon, so book a flight from 14:00. Come in April and May for rhododendrons, or October and November for clear skies, and we check the north road for your dates.

Photo: Rutva Andharia / Unsplash