Swayambhu, 06:15
Swayambhunath stands on a hill a short drive west of central Kathmandu. UNESCO counts its stupa as the oldest Buddhist monument in the valley, and its painted eyes look out on all four sides.
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Two ways up
The eastern stairway, laid by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century, is long and steep; take it slowly, one breath to a step. The western parking lot is the short way up, and the car can drive round to the top if knees object.
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At the top
Past the great vajra at the head of the stair, the stupa's painted eyes look out over a valley usually still in haze at dawn. Walk round it clockwise, as the pilgrims do, turning the prayer wheels with your right hand.
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Beside the stupa
A small shrine beside the stupa belongs to Hariti, a fierce goddess sworn to protect children under twelve. Newar parents bring their little ones to her. Ask your guide to show you, and ask before photographing a family at puja.
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Mind your bag
They also snatch anything that looks like food. Keep water bottles and temple offerings in a closed bag until you are back at the car, and do not hold snacks in your hand on the stair.
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Buddha Jayanti
On Buddha Jayanti, the full moon of the Buddha's birth, awakening and death, the valley's stupas are ringed with butter lamps after dark. In 2027 it falls on 20 May, in the hot, quiet weeks before the monsoon.
Photo: Sushanta Rokka / Unsplash
Planning
Go at about 06:15, before the city stirs, or in the late afternoon for the valley in low sun. A three-night visit usually leaves Swayambhu out, so add a fourth night and give it one end of the day.
Photo: Jeevan Katel / Unsplash