December to February
Five nights, run only from December to February: three in a planter's bungalow at Glenburn while its tea bushes rest, then two in a Pelling cottage with its own fire, facing Kanchenjunga.
Photo: Vinayak Khithani / Pexels
Glenburn, about 900 m (2,950 ft)
Glenburn's bungalows sit far below Darjeeling and noticeably milder: by the estate's own account its winter nights stay above 7 °C (45 °F). The pluckers are gone from the rows, and the sun sets near 16:45 as tea is poured on the verandah.
Photo: Endstarky / Unsplash
Winter at the factory
From December to early February the factory stands still, so a senior guide stops at each machine and explains its part. Out in the sections, pruning gangs shape next spring's flush; then four teas are tasted side by side.
Photo: Nepal Tea Collective
Day 3
An estate guide walks you up through the villages of Bora Gaon and Bhalukop, about an hour and a half on a track that is never steep. A rug and soup wait on a shelf among the tea, with the Kanchenjunga range across the valleys.
Photo: Rohit Sharma / Pexels
Pelling, West Sikkim
The Premium Cottage at The Elgin Mount Pandim has Burma teak floors, a balcony facing the mountains, a fireplace lit only in winter and its own dining table. Pelling's nights fall to between 1 and 3 °C (34 and 37 °F).
Photo: Sahil Pandita / Unsplash
First light
Around 06:00 in winter Kanchenjunga's summits take the first light while the valleys stay blue. Leave the curtains open, watch from the bed and ring for tea. The trip's only alarm is set for the last morning.
Photo: Labun Hang Limboo / Unsplash
Darap, 1,800 m (5,910 ft)
In Darap, 8 km below Pelling, a Limbu household pours thee, the warm millet brew, into a bamboo tongba and serves supper by the hearth. It is topped up with hot water before you can refuse.
Photo: Second Breakfast
Said plainly
You will see snow on Kanchenjunga on most clear mornings, but it does not reach Glenburn and is not promised at Pelling. The nearest reliable snow underfoot is at Tsomgo Lake, 3,753 m (12,310 ft), which freezes in January.
Photo: Dinkar Edupuganti / Pexels
Before you book
The last drive, Pelling to Bagdogra, takes five to six hours, so book a flight that leaves after 14:00. Glenburn's Christmas and New Year supplements are extra, and the cold, not the height, is what you will notice.
Photo: Soumik Ghosh / Unsplash