Six nights · Darjeeling

Learn the tea from the inside, then see the town

The planters knew Darjeeling tea from the inside: up before the pluckers, in the factory while the leaf was still rolling, and in town only for the club and the post. This week borrows their calendar: two working estates first, then Darjeeling.

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Days 1 and 2 · Makaibari

Into the sections at 07:30

Two nights at Taj Chia Kutir inside Makaibari, about 40 km from Bagdogra by the quiet Pankhabari road. At 07:30 the garden staff walk you into the sections to pluck for twenty minutes, then the factory and a tasting. Makaibari was certified organic in 1988.

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Day 2 · 12:30

Lunch at a Makaibari family's table

A family who work the estate and host guests through its homestay scheme cook lunch: usually rice, dal, a green from their garden, a sharp pickle and a last cup of their tea. They choose the menu. Tell us about allergies, not preferences.

Photo: Kiran Sankar Das / Unsplash

Day 3 · 06:30

The dawn train to Ghum, then downhill

First class on the 06:30 passenger train from Kurseong to Ghum, 2,258 m (7,410 ft), the top of the line. The car waits there for the hour down the Peshok road to Glenburn, more than 1,000 m (3,280 ft) lower, and brunch on the Burra Bungalow verandah.

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Day 4 · Glenburn factory

From the weighing scale to the tasting cup

Leaf is weighed, withered overnight in long troughs, rolled without breaking, left to darken towards copper, fired to about 2 percent moisture and sorted into grades. The morning ends with one estate's leaf made four ways: black, green, oolong and white.

Photo: Boudhayan Bardhan / Unsplash

Day 5 · Laden La Road

Your estate teas against a merchant's

At Nathmull's, tea merchants since 1931, we ask for the Makaibari and Glenburn teas you chose to be brewed beside the merchant's own lots from other gardens of the same season: what the estate makes, set against what the town sells.

Photo: Soumalya Halder / Pexels

Day 6 · Tiger Hill, 2,590 m (8,500 ft)

A flask of your own leaf at first light

If your guide reads cloud at 03:30, you sleep. If not, the car leaves the Windamere at 04:00, and at the top a flask of the Glenburn tea you chose is poured as the range takes the light. Wear the down jacket: it is several degrees colder than town.

Photo: Aritra Roy / Unsplash

When to go

Spring or autumn, while the bushes are plucked

Go March to May or October to November; from December to late February plucking stops. The route stays in West Bengal and needs no permit. From ₹1,80,000 per person, twin share. The month you choose decides which flush you pluck at Makaibari.

Photo: Akash Dey / Unsplash