Kurseong, Darjeeling district

The tea town most people drive through

Most visitors meet Kurseong for twenty minutes on the climb to Darjeeling: momos, a pot of tea, back in the car. Here is why we often stop for the night, and who should keep driving.

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Halfway up

1,483 m, and half the drive

Kurseong sits at about 1,483 m (4,870 ft), 32 km below Darjeeling and one to one and a half hours from Bagdogra, against about three for Darjeeling. A flight landing at two still leaves you a first evening.

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The name

Named for a small white orchid

Most people here say the name comes from the Lepcha kurson-rip, an orchid that flowers on mossy trunks in late winter and spring. If one is out above the road in March, your driver will stop.

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Milder nights

560 m lower than Darjeeling

That 560 m (1,840 ft) makes the nights milder, which matters in December and January in houses without central heating. No long-run weather record is published for the town, so we quote no figure.

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06:30

The railway runs down the high street

The station is the middle of town. Train 52587 leaves at 06:30 and climbs 29 km to Darjeeling in 2 hours 35 minutes, used by school children and traders. It is a working train, not a joy ride.

Photo: Boudhayan Bardhan / Unsplash

Muscatel country

The gardens begin at the edge of town

Makaibari, just below town, was founded in 1852, and the district's first tea factory opened inside it in 1859. Castleton, planted in 1885, makes the muscatel that others are measured against.

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Eagle's Crag

A tower that shows the plains

A kilometer from the station, a watchtower of about 9 m (30 ft) looks north to a distant Kanchenjunga and south over the gardens to the plains you flew in from. Almost nowhere else in these hills shows you the plains.

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Giddapahar

The house where Netaji was held

Four kilometers out is the Bose family house where Subhas Chandra Bose spent seven months under house arrest in 1936, now a small museum. Its hours are not reliably published, so we call the day before.

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Here or higher up

Who should keep driving

If the mountain is the point, or you have three or four nights on a first visit, sleep in Darjeeling: Kurseong's bazaar is quiet by nine. Tell us your landing time and who is traveling, and we will say where the first night belongs.

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