Day 1 · Bagdogra airport Darjeeling
Kag Tihar: up the hill as the first lamps appear
- 70 km, about 3 h
- High point 2,258 m
- Sleep at 2,045 m
- Easy
Your driver waits at the Bagdogra arrivals exit, and the 70 km up take about three hours. Today is Kag Tihar, the day of the crow, Yama's messenger: this morning hill families set out rice and sweets on their roofs for the birds, and you may still see the offerings on the ledges. At Kurseong, where you stop for tea at about 14:00, the first marigold garlands are going up on the stalls, and orange and yellow strings hang from the shop fronts all the way to Darjeeling. You reach The Elgin by 16:30. The house dates from 1887 and first belonged to the Maharaja of Cooch Behar; a fire is laid in your room. At about 17:00, as the light goes, your guide for the week walks you up to Chowrasta, where the first oil lamps are appearing on steps and window ledges. Dinner is at 19:30 in the Orchid Dining Room, and over it your guide explains the five days ahead and what each one asks of a guest.
The momentThe first diyo of the week, flickering on a stone step off Chowrasta while the ridge turns blue and the cold comes down.
InsiderKag Tihar opens Yamapanchak, the five days of Yama: crows first, then dogs, cows, oxen, and on the last day, brothers.
If the weather turnsShould slides close the climb, your driver switches to whichever hill road is open that day. Land after 14:00 and the Chowrasta walk moves to the next evening.
- Tonight
- The Elgin, Darjeeling, Darjeeling
- Meals
- Dinner
